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dash-seat left-rear I think I was bleeding the brakes again at this point. After transport from Dallas to Austin I found a defective Goodrich brake line. I bought these from BSI Racing and with their help and with Goodrich's help I got replacements (they sent me both rears just in case!). flywheel Flywheel, not checked, warped, or scored...just some cleaning with emery paper should do the trick. It will be checked by an expert though to make sure there are no cracks. bellhousing All the oil leaking from the back of the engine ended up here. Amazingly the clutch disk and pressure plate looked dry. clutch-disk Clutch disk wearing thin on one side. engine-rear Looking up the tunnel at the back of the engine. crankshaft-back-end camshaft-sensor A look at the camshaft sensor from under the car. There was lots of oil leaking from this area as well as the valve cover gasket. engine-out-leak Engine out of the car. It looked like it would be a pain in the butt to replace the tranny with the engine still in...so I figured what the heck and pulled it. It needs a good cleaning and gasket replaced as well as looking into some exhaust valve leaks on #2 and #3 cylinders. Rings look good and #1 and #4 cylinders look good overall. eng-comp-before Engine compartment before cleaning shows lots of dirt. This car had been run without the under cover for a long time. eng-comp-after Engine compartment after a good cleaning on the passenger side. I took everything off that was bolted (harnesses, tanks, lines, etc.), vacuumed, then cleaned with Krud Cutter (will clean anything...including oil spills on your garage floor! I got it from Home Depot), rinsed with water (spray bottle) then blown dry and WD40 on holes to make sure no rust appeared. I couldn't have put everything back in place if I hadn't taken the before picture and replaced the bolts into the holes after I removed a bracket, tank, etc. cage3 This is the cage put in by Todd Opperman. You can't ask for a better deal. He not only puts the cage in and takes unecessary stuff out but fabricates the net rigging, hardtop brackets, and seatback bracket! I highly recommend him. The following pictures show the rest of the cage. Send me an e-mail if you want Todd's contact info. Be prepared to wait though since he's very busy. cage2 cage1 cage4 cage6 cage-painted The cage after painting with a flat black paint. Two cans of primer, two cans of paint (almost two anyway). Make sure you get compatible paints for all of them. valve-cover Inside of valve cover after cleaning. This was the hardest thing to clean. Note the bottom right area. That's where the PCV valve hooks up to. I guess the little walls/baffles keep oil from getting to the valve...well...it also makes this the nastiest and hardest to clean area of the cover. The best thing for those nooks and crannies is Gumout Carb & Choke cleaner. I claned with Gung Engine Brite first and then a water based solution in the parts washer then hosed off and cleaned the last specs with the Gumout. Gumout doesn't work well for very thick stuff because it dries fast...but it's great for the last few hard-to-get spots. oil-pan Oil pan. Not as hard to clean as I thought. Note what looks like a crack on the right side (the deep part of the pan) going from top to bottom. There are also many little spider cracks everywhere on the pan. They don't seem to go all the way to the outside so I don't know if they are a by-product of the casting process or if the previous owner jacked up the car from the pan. I hope I can use it still. oil-pan-2 Close-up of the logbook2 Logbook picture. Car is technically/safety legal at this point. logbook1 Front 3/4 shot for logbook. buckle-tab Shows the window net buckle welded to the cage. Sorry for the blurriness. My welds have improved a lot since I got an auto-darkening helmet and with all the practice. buckle-installed-outside This shows the window net installed from the outside. Noticed I painted the tab neon orange. My idea was to make it very visible and prevent myself or someone else hitting their head helmet on it. However, the fit of the buckle and tab are tight and the paint doesn't allow proper operation so I removed the paint in the bottom area. buckle-installed-inside window net installed from the inside. rad-hose-cut This is the upper radiator hose showing how much I had to cut to accomodate the bung tee for the water temperature sensor. Wt-bung-tee WT Bung Tee close-up wt-bung-installed This is the water bung tee installed. Because of the intake runner the tee has to be pointed down. op-wt-feedthrough This shows the pass through for the water temp and oil pressure lines. The oil pressure line is covered with a heat-shrink sleeve and also with a plastic coil to protect it. There is a grommet in the hole and also some RTV to hold everything down and keep it from vibrating and rubbing. op-wt-gauges-back This is the back of the oil pressure and water temperature gauges. The lightbulbs are wired they just need to be inserted. I left it like this until I can run the engine for leak testing. These are gauges from Carquest Auto Parts. I've been told these are rebadged Stewart-Warner gauges and at less than $40 a set, you can't beat that deal. The panel is an 0.030 steering-coupler Homemade steering coupler, version 2, with Mr. Ed doing the welds for me. dash-mychron All that dust came from my spin/off at TWS on May 2006.
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